This is a printer-friendly description of how to remove the door panel of the CGT to replace the window regulator assembly and/or the glass guide weatherstrip that runs around the upper window frame. One of the aggravatingly common failures on these cars is the power window regulator cable. The cable isn't sold as a seperate item from the window motor, meaning big $$$ to buy a new one. I have pulled most of mine from cars in salvage yards as the motors themselves rarely fail.
After replacing two in the same door of my own car, I looked into why they were failing. The main factor seemed to be the cable was being over-stressed by the door glass resisting it's upward motion. I examined my original run channels (the rubber and felt piece the glass slides in) and found they were worn. This allows the glass to get cocked on it's way up, creating excessive drag and straining the cable. New run channels seem to have corrected this problem and I haven't broken one since.
An interesting aside: very early CGT's were available with manual windows, and these regulator assemblies will bolt right in to the later doors. Only thing missing is a hole in the door panel for a handle. If you're completely frustrated with the power windows, it is an option if you can find them.
As with anything on the web, my instructions and advice are worth what you have paid for them. I'm not responsible for any damages you cause or inaccuracies in what follows.
Tools required: Phillips screwdrivers of varying tip sizes (I use a cordless screwdriver to speed things up), 10mm socket, ratchet, short extension, universal joint; 10 mm open or box end wrench, small pick or awl, maybe a flat screwdriver.
1. Open the door and have a look along the perimeter of the map pocket; you should find about 7 visible screws that hold it and the door panel to the car. Remove them. They may be hard to find as the heads are countersunk beneath the carpeting on the pocket in many places. They should also have little trim washers that go with them. Note that after they are removed, the map pocket will not come off! It stays attached to the door panel (more later).
2. Remove the two large head Phillips screws from the underside of the armrest. When it is loose, you can pivot the upper handle attachment at about a 45 degree angle and pull it out of the door. This may take some finagling to get it out. Note: if you're working on the driver's side, you will need to deal with the power mirror switch. It is a major PITA. The switch assembly can be carefully pried up out of the armrest. Disconnect the wiring harness. Getting the harness disconnected may require the switch be partway out of the handle but not completely. If you think this is fun, wait until it goes back together!
3. Using the small pick, pop the little cover off the screw behind the inside door handle and remove the screw. You may have to hold the chrome handle open to access it. The bezel then just pops out, but they have a tendency to stick to the leather door panels pretty well.
4. Remove the screw head cover on the trim plate behind the rearview mirror mount. Remove the screw. Then remove the other screw you can now see with that plate removed that runs through a metal tab for the door panel. Unscrew the door lock knob (yup, it just threads off).
5. Okay, now there are clips that hold the door panel to the door--three at the rear and two at the leading edge. If you are careful, you can grab the panel firmly and give quick tug at the spot where a clip is and it will usually pop loose. If not, you may want to carefully use a flat screwdriver or gasket scraper to get between the panel and door frame and pop them loose. With this accomplished, the panel should be loose everywhere except at the top edge.
6. Pry the panel off the top of the door frame, usually upward starting at the back end. Note: The black plastic trim strip along the top of the trim panel should come off with it. If the panel is coming out of this strip, you're not doing it right...don't force it. Try getting a screwdriver or something in under the end of the trim strip and prying the edge off the door frame. Once you get it started it will usually cooperate. Note: Since I'll probably forget to mention it later, the top trim strip must be mounted to the trim panel first, and then the trim panel attached back on the door. If you do it the other way and try to snap the panel into the trim strip, it won't stay. I don't know why, it just won't.
7. At this point you should have the door panel off. Now is the time to remove those 'guaranteed to be broken' map pockets! There are two screws on the backside of the panel that hold it on. I have removed my pockets completely. I've made attempts at repairing the stripped/broken screw holes with very little success using epoxy products. The type of plastic just doesn't lend itself to repair very well. If you've found a solution that lasts, please let me know. Personally, I don't miss 'em. The screws fill the lower perimeter holes just fine, and for the larger center hole I found a plastic interior trim plug to close it at the junkyard.
8. The door should have a plastic water curtain on it. Carefully peel it off starting at the top and going down, letting it sort of hang on the door along the bottom edge. The adhesive will generally be good enough to simply stick it back on when you're done. These curtains are important to keep the back of the door panel dry; if yours is ruined, simply cut a plastic trash bag to fit and duct tape it around the edges, making small holes where appropriate.
9. Remove the 3 screws that hold the door release handle and let it hang, or remove if you wish.
10. Now is a good time to run the existing window up and down to see how it works (unless your cable has broken of course!). Watch specifically how it pivots and seats at the upper rear corner of the window frame. You can also use the other side as a guide. The motion is not constant, and most will be about 2" from the top of their travel when they suddenly cock in and fit. Run the window about halfway down and you'll see the two bolts that hold the glass to the regulator guide. Remove these with a 10mm socket. Hold onto the glass.
11. Pivot the forward edge of the glass downward toward the bottom of the door until it comes out of the guide track. Then move the glass forward in the door until it comes out of the rear guide. You can now remove the glass with some difficulty, or simply leave it in the door.
12. Window regulator (skip this part if you're not replacing it): Remove the 3 nuts with the 10mm socket that hold the motor in place. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the regulator guide rail at the top, and the one that holds it in at the bottom (you may want a u-joint for your socket). Disconnect the wiring--you may have to snip a wire tie or two. The cable portion can then be 'collapsed' and the motor and guide fished out of one of the larger holes in the door. Installation is the reverse of removal, of course. If you are changing to a manual regulator, it may use different holes where the motor mounting was, but the holes will be there.
13. Guide channel (skip this part if you're not replacing it): Note how the channel is installed before you remove it. See the depth, how the corners look, and what part is 'revealed' to your sight. Again, you can use the opposite door to guide you. Pull out the channel being careful not to peel the vinyl covering with it that is on the window frame. You will have to twist and finesse it to get it past the belt molding (the belt is the line that travels just below the mirror). Unwrap your expensive new molding (about $85 when I wrote this) and form it into a U-shape, then slowly push it into the window frame starting at the upper rear corner. This corner has to be done correctly or it won't fit right and you'll get an annoying air leak. Push the corner into the frame completely; don't worry about being short at the ends, it won't happen. The edge towards the inside of the car usually make a nice 'snap' sound as it goes into place. Don't push the channel in too far (look at the other side again). Work the channel in around the rest of the perimeter. Again, it will require twisting and a little finesse to get it past the belt molding. For the tricky part getting it into the channel around the belt line, I suggest a capped Bic pen to push it into the channel.
14. Now it's time to install and align the glass, which can be a little tricky but not impossible. Remember how the window will want to 'cock' into a seated position when it reaches the top of it's travel? This is what we have to duplicate. Put the window back into the new run channel the opposite way you took it out. Be sure the glass is fully seated in the channel. Remember, the channel is new and will be a snug fit, the whole point of doing this. Attach the two bolts that hold the window in place loosely, then run the window up fully until you can get it seated in the closed position. You may have to help it into place but don't make the motor force it. With the window closed, use the open or box wrench to tighten the bolts snugly (you can reach them with the window closed). Test it and adjust as necessary. All we care about is that it shuts correctly at the top...the action up to that point can look crooked, and it probably should. With the window closed, test the seal with a hose or take a test drive to check for air leaks. ANY gap you can see is too big. Now is the time to find a problem and correct it.
15. Reassembly: Nothing exciting here. When you're satisfied you've done a good job (and saved yourself a bundle of cash), reinstall the door panel after attaching the inner door handle. The top molding on it must be attached first. Snap the molding down onto the door--it should go on with some light smacks. If you need to whack it with a hammer, you don't have it on right. Line up and snap the door panel clips into their holes. Run the screws into the (missing?) map pocket holes. Put the armrest top mount in first, then twist into position and attach the two large screws.* Attach the screw, then the miror trim plate and screw. Attach the lock knob. Reinstall the bezel for the inside handle. Snap in the screw covers. Attach anything else I've forgotten :>)
*Mirror switch: Oh yeah, make sure you didn't trap the wiring harness behind the door panel. Get your library of curse words together, then try to simultaneously snap the harness to the switch while putting the switch into the armrest. It is possible...I have done it...but I don't know how I finally did it. The good news is, if you can't get it together, you can say "screw it" until another day and just leave the switch out temporarily until you regain your composure and patience.
Caveat: I wrote this after doing the passenger side run channel, which is fairly easy. I did the driver's side a couple of years prior and am going by memory alone on that side. If I have forgotten a step, bolt, or you have a better way of doing it, please email me and let me know so I can correct it for others.
