What is my 1961-1966 Ford truck worth?

I decided to create this page as a response to the seemingly endless posts on message boards asking this same question. If you've come here from a link I posted, it's because I'm weary of typing the same responses over and over.  As a licensed vehicle appraiser in my home state of PA, I have a little more knowledge than the average person on this subject.

The market for these trucks is currently in a state of flux. Nobody really knows for sure what the limit on value may be, as they are only now becoming popular. For a long time, these trucks were pretty much ignored by collectors, and were simply worth what any old truck would bring. That is changing, but slowly.

First, it greatly depends on what kind of truck you have. Certain trucks will have more universal appeal to collectors, hot rodders, and guys who just like old trucks. A few common denominators:

*Short beds are always worth more than long beds

*Unibody trucks are worth more than those with seperate cabs and beds (Uni's were only made 61-63)

*V8s are worth more than sixes

*61-63 standard bed trucks are worth the least of all normal pickups, as they have the mis-matched bed of the 57-60

     truck. The body lines don't really match, so people often think these beds are 'wrong', and they just aren't as sexy

*Custom Cabs are worth slightly more than standard cabs, but not much more

*65-66 trucks are generally more desirable than the 61-64 solid front axle trucks, as the cabs are larger and they ride             better. However, to a rodder interested in lowering a truck, the newer Twin I Beam is actually undesirable.

*Flat beds, utility bodies, or most any non-original pickup bed significantly hurts the value

*F100s are worth more than F250 and larger models as they ride better and have better highway gearing

*4x4s are an unusual market. While generally not as desirable as a 4x2 version, to someone seeking a 4x4 a good                 example will have good value

*Any of these trucks with a Chevrolet or other non-Ford engine swap is essentially worthless. While you may eventually           find a buyer, unlike the earlier fat fender trucks, this market shuns such engine swaps and they are very, very hard           to sell.

Another factor in value is what part of the USA you are standing in. Due to the fact these trucks, like most vintage vehicles, rust with abandon effects the supply vs demand in different parts of the country. West coast, desert states, and even the south have significantly more trucks than anywhere in the northern rust belt. And the population of trucks in a certain area may be less rust prone than others. My point being, a decent, rust free truck in Oregon may be worth $1500-$2000. That same truck in New York state could potentially bring twice that. With the extreme high cost of rust and body repairs, a buyer would be wise to consider a truck from a 'dry' state and factor in the shipping costs when looking at a truck in a rust-prone state. It is always cheaper to buy a better example for slightly more than to try fixing a welder's project.

Condition is, of course, everything. The body is the biggest deciding factor, since it is the largest portion of the vehicle and the highest cost to repair. Equipment levels don't vary much, and there doesn't seem to be a great difference between stick shift and automatic models, as neither has what I'd call a 'modern' transmission. The 4 speed is simply a 3 speed with a 'granny' first gear that isn't especially useful in a retired truck. The Fordomatic slushboxes are okay but not viewed as suitable for much more than stock power. When it comes to six cylinders, the bigger the better. While they are all good (and generally pretty fuel thrifty), the newer 300 cid six is an acceptable swap. Unless you have to have that V8 rumble, the six should not be dismissed as most are surprisingly torquey and generally very dependable. The Y-block V8 used from 61-64 isn't especially powerful, and parts to rebuild them can be somewhat costly. The FE big block used 65-66 is generally respected but it is a giant hunk of cast iron and does not generate impressive power for what it is in stock form. It too can be somewhat costly to rebuild compared to more modern engines. A note:  the FE engines outwardly are all pretty much the same. Many trucks are advertised as having a 390 cid engine, which often is not true. The original engine is a 352 cid, and a common replacement was a later 360 cid.  Unless you measure the actual piston stroke of the engine, you really can't tell what's in there. "390" engines should be viewed with skepticism.

I previously mentioned the big no-no of the Chevy engine swap. As far as Ford engine replacements, most anything appears to be acceptable though everyone has their preference. The quality of a swap is probably more important than the lump under the hood. If it looks like it's always been in there from Ford's assembly line, it's probably a decent swap. If it's got a nest of wires, hoses, and vacuum lines capped with golf tees I'd subtract dollars, as you're very likely going to have to fix a lot of dubious engineering. Swaps do not increase the value. At best, they are a wash (though they make a former six cylinder truck more saleable) and to a purist of course they hurt the value, but there don't seem to be a huge number of people involved in these trucks worried about properly date coded ignition wires. Thank heavens.

Customizing:  this is truly a "to each his own" area. What one person thinks is cool another may turn and run away from. Generally speaking, fancy wheels, paint and custom interiors don't really matter one way or the other. Start talking about frame swaps, front end clip jobs, chopped tops or really modified bodies and your market narrows pretty quickly. The vast majority of buyers right now seem to go for a mostly stock body. Some will want a more modern suspension, brakes, air conditioning, etc and in fact these upgrades can enhance value for that market. When you start making custom grilles, wood dashes, fuel tanks in the bed and shaved door handles your market shrinks, and you're only going to sell it to someone who thinks such things are as cool as you. I guy like me won't buy a truck with shaved door handles, ever. The shaved door handle guy may never want a truck with a 3 speed column shift, either.  But I can sell my column shifter truck to more people than the shaved door handle guy can. Consider this for any modification. The good thing, however, is that the truck 'club' community accepts any and all trucks equally. It is one of the few groups of motorheads I have found that shares an appreciation for most anything, so long as it is a 61-66 Ford pickup (and not Chevy powered). Something may not be their personal cup of tea, but they won't dislike you for it.

Aberrations:  There are a few things that will make certain trucks worth significantly more than the next one. It's a short list. Big back windows in Unibody trucks add to their value, though by how much I really can't say. The Ranger package with bucket seats is very rare, and is probably an easy $500-$1000 premium depending on condition. The occasional Good Humor ice cream trucks that turn up fetch serious money ($10,000-$25,000 and up for a restored example is common). Conversely, the numerous ex-military trucks (mostly Army and Air Force, and almost always six cylinder step sides) are worth no more than a similar common truck, which to me is a shame. Also, big trucks (F500-F700), tow trucks, etc are all generally not very valuable as they are difficult to restore, have limited appeal, take up lots of space and share few parts with the smaller models.

Ok, so you've read this far and still want to know what your truck is worth. There are a few ways you can make a decision.

The best way is to find a GOOD collector car price guide. I recommend those published by Old Cars Price Guide. This guide uses six specific condition ratings to more accurately peg the value. You may be able to find a copy on a magazine rack in better book stores. While I deem this source the most accurate, the values are based on auction results and mathematical calculations, so you will see them contradict somewhat the info I've presented above (that a short bed is worth the same as a long bed, for example). My observations are based on watching this exact market, where the guide book must take a broader view. Still, it's the best guide I've come across.

You can also use slightly more vague online sources such as Manheim Auctions guide. Kelly Blue Book presently does not have a collector car online guide. NADA does, but it's nearly useless in my opinion. For a laugh, go check it out and look at the V8 engine option for a 1965 truck. Ford never made a 289 F100.

The best research is to use online sources for the real thing, and here Ebay is particularly useful. Just do a search for whatever you seek (use Ford truck, pickup, F100 or any combination with the year or 196* for a fuzzy search) and then click on "completed auctions" on the left hand column. This will show you final auction values for trucks listed recently and is probably one of the best indicators of current value.

I have also used (and actually bought my own truck on) Collector Car Trader Online. Keep in mind that unlike Ebay, these are asking prices, and some people will think their trucks are worth far more than they really are. Useful as a tool, but not gospel. As with Ebay, search a couple different ways (F100, pickup) to get all the listings as people will title their ads with anything (often I find them listed as "F150", which they aren't).

My final advice:  buy the best truck you can afford, not the cheapest project you can find. The money you think you are saving now will be spent many times over later, trust me. And ultimately, a truck is worth what you are willing to pay for it.

Visit the rest of my site here, or just the Ford truck pages here.

Addendum: 

List of common rust areas on 61-66 trucks in my own opinion of severity and effect on value, worst to least

Cab mounts (available repro)

Cab outriggers (rear of cab, patch panels available)

Floorpans (repro available for 61-64, 65-66 can be made to work with newer model pans)

Roof perimeter (difficult to repair)

Radiator core support (now available repro for 61-64 trucks, can be made to fit 65-66 with some work)

Unibody bed sides & crossmembers

Unibody tailgates (impossible to find used, repro available but not cheap)

61-64 cab steps (available repro)

Hood, generally the front edge (only repro available is very expensive fiberglass version)

64-66 fleetside bed front floor (no patch panel available)

Bottom of hinge post (excellent patch pieces made by Carolina Classics)

Cab corners (patch panels available)

Doors (Uni doors are different than standard cabs)

Fenders (can be found used; patch panels available)

Tailgates, standard bed 64-66 (repros available new but not 'correct', have different lettering)

Not rust related but worth noting: original type rear bumpers and brackets for fleetside and unibody trucks can be hard to find. Factor this in to any potential purchase.

Nitpickers Notation:

Another one of my hobbies is model railroading, and we have a term - "rivet counter" - to describe people who literally count the rivets on model train cars for accuracy to the prototype. Hobbies are supposed to be fun, but guys like these suck the fun right out of it. Well, we've got them in the Ford pickup world too.

Ford truck brand names for the two styles of beds are Styleside (smooth) and Flareside (fender).  The general population often refers to them, as I did above, as Fleetside and Stepside. These are actually GM brand names for the bed types, but for whatever reason they are the terms the general public recognizes to describe the differences. Honestly, who gives a rip?  Step side is actually an accurate description of what a bed with fenders and steps on the side actually is. Yet, I have people who feel the need to 'correct' the 'misinformation' on this site...rivet counters.  Yet these same people refer to the unitized cab/bed trucks as "unibody" trucks, when they really aren't. Unibody vehicles have the frame integrated into the body shell.  Pickups are not made this way.  A more accurate description would be "unicab" or "unibed" but the mere suggestion of using those terms will get you angry replies on most message boards. So, I will let the 'universal' terms for the beds remain on this site just to irritate those who have nothing better to do than count the rivets on their truck frames. Nyah-nyah.